A few days ago was the beginning of the month of Mah-Haram. It’s a month of mourning for Shia (Shiite) Muslims. Actually it’s two months, after Mah-Haram is Mah-Safar. Yes two whole months of mourning. Who died? Hossein. Imam Hossein. Grandson of Mohammad, prophet of Islam.
Basically Hossein, along with many of his family members and some of his followers, were killed by their Arab overlords (Sunni Muslims who at that time were in power, ruling the Islamic Empire) in the town of Karbala (in present day Iraq). Hossein is arguably the most important Imam for Shia Muslims – partly because of the way he died (bravely in battle, deserted by many of his followers, without a chance in hell – his clan was about 70, Yazid’s army was many thousand).
Iranians are majority Shia – the only country in the world. 90% of the world’s Muslims are Sunni. There are also large Shia populations in Iraq and Lebanon.
It’s a couple months of mourning. This means that certain things become sinful, or at least not polite, such as wearing bright colours (especially red, considered the colour of the enemies), singing, dancing and being merry.
For about half of the Mah-Haram people come onto the streets at night and engage in various activities (which take a hell of a lot of organising). Each neighbourhood is divided into a number of “heyats” which are groups that pool money together in order to organise the mourning events. Each Heyat has a “tekiyeh” which is sort of like a base for mourning, usually a large tent set up on the street. Inside people can come in to mourn. The heyats give out food and drinks. I can’t say for sure but I’d say more people come for the food than the mourning.
Each tekiyeh has a “dasteh” which is a group of mourners. These are all men. They set off onto the streets at night and mourn. Of course they have to make a public show out of it! To the rhythm of many drums and the sound of a live singer singing songs about Hossein and his death, they either hit their chests with their hands or use chains to hit their own backs.
Yes, it is a form of self flagellation, but it’s not something practiced only by fanatics. It’s more of a cultural practice that those that do not participate in go and watch. The mood is more exciting than it is sombre. There is the sound of live music and loud drums, the songs are rhythmic and though religious in content, nevertheless make you want to dance. Everyone is out and about at night. There is free food everywhere! Boys and girls are mixing it up on the street. They have the same amounts of hair gel and make-up as other months, the same tight fitting clothes, the only difference is it’s all black.
These pictures are from the tenth day of Mah-haram, known as Ashura, when Hossein was killed. The day is a public holiday and the dasteh’s come out in the morning and finish up at noon (the hour Hossein is believed to have been killed) – warning…. sacrifice of animals depicted.
The dastehs set off down the streets of their own hood.
Sometimes there is rivalry between the datehs – who’s got the biggest Alamat (you can see it with the couloured feathers in the distance in the photo), who has the most numbers, who’s got the best singer, etc.
Here is an alamat – it weighs around 500 kilos I’m told and has to be carried by one person. They take it in turns and wear special belts to avoid their spines snapping. Alamats have been deemed illegal because of the health hazard they are, the fact that they block the entire street and not to mention that it has more to do with rivalry and showmanship than Islam (but as you know by now people in Iran mostly just ignore the law).
Yep, the dastehs add to Tehran’s already chaotic traffic.
My mother enjoying some of the food being given out. mmmmm.
My aunt, little cousin (wearing red – so going to hell no doubt), and I enjoy more freebies – hot chocolate – so good as it was yet another literally freezing day!
Before
during…
and after. Ok so it’s not the same sheep. I saw about 5 killed in one night. It’s a sacrifice to God (like the story of Abraham). You will be surprised just how red the blood is. Sorry girls for putting these photos up. Sorry guys I didn’t get any photos of the in between (they put a pump up the sheeps ass and blow it up before removing the skin… gross).
The rhythm and atmosphere is at times hypnotic. Reminds me of Sufi rituals.
Girls dressed up (in black) looking at boys (looking at girls, etc).
My whole family went to a party (we had 5 parties in one week!) and I just stayed home and slept and tried to stay alive (ok so it wasn’t that bad).
